Roman Holiday I & II ©Judith L. Rose 2010

My “public” seems to be clamoring for information on my Roman Holiday. One wag among you even suggested that perhaps it could turn into a film with Julia Roberts. Alas, too late.

But first, a little housekeeping. Since I am putting this up on the Internet, which basically means that anyone in the world can see it if they stumble upon it, I am not mentioning any names, only using the word “friend” when referring to other people. If you respond, please respect the privacy of others and don’t mention any names. (I know this isn’t very 21^st century.)

I am enjoying myself immensely. I don’t think I’ve had the luxury of doing exactly as I please since a summer vacation stretched ahead of me when I was six years old. The weather has been beautiful, which, of course, makes it even easier to get around and enjoy the beauty of this city. Friends here in Rome have been most welcoming for which I am grateful. There is so much to choose from in the way of cultural activities. I’ve been attending a Vittorio Gassman month-long revival in a cinema where I don’t know which is more interesting…the film or the setting. The theatre is below street level and one wall is all glass windows looking out on an underground excavation of an ancient site. You know the film is about to begin when they close the curtains overlooking the archeological site. For current films, there are six movie theatres within easy walking distance of my apartment. I’ve been to several classical music performances, and the opportunities are endless. This Monday, the Vienna Philharmonic is performing gratis at S. Paulo fuori le Mura. Should be an interesting experience if I can get in.

And speaking of Julia Roberts and Eat, Pray, Love, I’ve managed to do very well in the first category. The windows of my apartment look out on the local daily market.

Market-Piazza San Cosimato

The streets around me are lined with shops for every kind of food: fresh pasta, pastry and bread, cheese, sausages, etc. I can eat sumptuously and never leave my street and piazza. Some delicacies are particular to Rome such as these:

Palle del nonno - Grandfather’s testicles

And these:

Coglioni di mulo - Mule’s testicles

I’m not going to bore you with a day by day description of what I’ve done, but I’ll hit on some high points.

Park of the Villa Doria Pamphilj

My apartment is in Trastevere which is just on the other side of the Tiber from the area where the Ghetto and Campo de’ Fiori are located. The many ascents to the Janiculum are practically at my doorstep, and when I finally reach the top, the largest park in Rome, where the serious runners and walkers go, awaits me. I can walk alongside an aqueduct, pass a lake with swans, walk through groves of sea pines, marvel at centuries-old oaks and cedars, and always find a drinking fountain when I need it. And since it is up high and heavily wooded, the air is sweet and fresh. When the Pamphilj family built their villa there, they called it Bel Respiro (literally, good breathing). The villa is now used by the Italian government as a site for formal events for the President of the Council of Ministers. (The current holder of that office is Berlusconi.) It is never open to the public, except that, as luck would have it, this weekend it is, and I’ve reserved a spot on the tour. For the art historians who are reading this, it was designed by Algardi.

Climbing the Janiculum (This is just the first part.)

Park of the Villa Doria Pamphilj

Park of the Villa Doria Pamphilj

Bel Respiro - Villa Doria Pamphilj

Park of the Villa Doria Pamphilj There’s always a drinking fountain when you need it. Here the water is offered by the Lupa romana (Wolf of Rome).

Villa of Livia at Prima Porta

To refresh your Roman history, Livia was the wife of Octavian who became the first emperor Augustus. After taking a bus, subway and train, I traveled back in time for 2000 years and arrived at Prima Porta for a guided tour of Livia’s villa. The most important frescoes from the villa are at a museum in Rome, but I have always wanted to see the actual villa or, at least, what remains of it. For years it was never open to the public, and it is now open on a limited basis. The upper class Romans chose to site their villas in high places (better air and no danger of flooding…also easier to defend), and this site is among the most majestic. The villa is on a high tufa cliff with views toward the Tiber as it winds its way towards Rome. The original part of the villa is actually quite modest (it was begun before Augustus became emperor) and takes advantage of the site; the bedrooms were oriented to take advantage of the view towards the river. Even though most of the remaining walls are only knee-high, you can get a good idea of the plan and extent of the villa.

Prima Porta - Villa of Livia (the villa was up at the top)

Prima Porta, Villa of Livia bedroom

Prima Porta, Villa of Livia The Imperial Swimming Pool

Prima Porta, Villa of Livia in situ frescoes

Prima Porta, Villa of Livia in situ frescoes

Palazzo Barberini

Of course, I’ve been visiting the usual museums and archeological sites (although I’m saving most museums for the rainy weather, which will inevitably arrive). Most of you have been to these places, so I will spare you a description. One museum\palace that is worthy of comment, however, is the Palazzo Barberini. Most American tourists don’t go, or if they do, they go straight to the Caravaggios and then leave. The whole Palazzo, inside and out, has undergone a renovation. They have opened the gardens, cleaned up the garden façade, opened two floors in a new wing, re-hung the collections, cleaned and restored many paintings, including the Pietro da Cortona chapel (probably of interest only to the art historians who are reading this), and added excellent explanatory material in the galleries. Important architects had a hand in the design, including Bernini and Borromini, and it’s wonderful to see the building brought back to life. Definitely worth a visit.

Palazzo Barberini main façade

Palazzo Barberini Borromini window

Palazzo Barberini garden façade

Palazzo Barberini gardens

Palazzo Barberini porte cochère

Miscellanea

A random selection of photos follows. It will give you an idea of what I’ve seen and where I’ve been as I explore this endlessly fascinating city.

MAXXI (Museo d’Arte del XII Secolo\Museum of Art of the XXIst Century) Zaha Hadid, architect

MAXXI

MAXXI

My apartment building

Sunday Afternoon in the Parco Celimontana

Nuns on a Sunday Outing

Glamour Life T-Shirt

The Roman Forum

Trastevere

Shop Sign "Back sooner or later"

Trastevere

Palestinian demonstration at the French Embassy

Four-day long Chopin recitals

Trouble in the piazza….MY piazza. The homeless guys live under a portico around the corner. The carabinieri station is also around the corner, and they were able to call an ambulance for the poor guy on the right. Just in case you’re wondering, I took this from my window. It’s part of life in the piazza.

My piazza again. The resident musician.

Intermission at the Auditorium. Concert version of Rossini’s William Tell by Accademia di Santa Cecelia. Architecture by Renzo Piano.

Santa Maria della Pace. Bramante’s Cortile. Could he ever have imagined this?

Roman Pizza

Roman Pizza with eggplant

Part II

My glorious Roman autumn continues.  In response to the first installment of this blog, one of you asked for food photos.  Here we go. (For those of you not so interested in food, just skip this part.)

 

Puntarelle.  This is very much a Roman item.  Tender inner shoots of the chicory plant are stripped of their leaves (a somewhat labor intensive task), then put into cold water which makes them curl up.  The traditional finish is then an anchovy dressing which you see here.

 Spices at the Campo de' Fiori market

 

 

Roman broccoli.  Usually prepared as part of a pasta dish.

 Aperitifs in Testaccio

 At the weekend farmers market.  Hurry up, it's almost gone!

Sausages and pancetta at the farmers market.

Chestnuts gathered by a friend at the family farm in Abruzzo.

Goodies at the store across the street from me.

Almost ready for dinner.

Every deli has their own freshly made pesto, a staple of my diet.

The fish monger at the Testaccio market.

Home made (not by me) crostata

 Delicacies from the pastry shop ready for afternoon tea.

 Fresh anchovies

The tomato vendor

Pizza a taglio.  There are hundreds (thousands?) of storefront shops with pizza by the slice.  Some are superb!

Via Appia Antica

I’ve been taking advantage of the gorgeous weather to go to archeological sites.  “All roads lead to Rome.” and the Via Appia, which was opened in 312 BC, is one of those roads.  It led all the way to Brindisi on the Adriatic coast.  (More about Brindisi later on.)  Originally the site of imperial and aristocratic villas and of tombs, it later became the burial grounds (catacombs) for early Christians. There are still modern private villas which you can glimpse only fleetingly behind high gates and walls.  On a day when it isn’t crowded, it can be one of the most peaceful and beautiful places anywhere as you walk along the street lined with cypress trees and sea pines with the original stone paving underfoot.

The old and the new.  Note airplane coming in for landing at nearby Ciampino airport.

Tomb of Cecilia Metella

Interior of tomb of Cecilia Metella

remains of an imperial villa

Halloween comes to Rome

Student Protests

University students are protesting just about everything.  And why do I have so many photos of this demonstration?  Unfortunately, I had more opportunity than I would have wanted to watch this gathering demonstration since they were blocking the arrival of the bus I was waiting for.  

Students massing in the Piazzale Ostiense

 The second phalanx, which had gathered elsewhere, arrives with much cheering.

The police ready to lead the way....

....with the Carabinieri bringing up the rear.

.

The Tiber

Si apre come un’aurora

Roma, dietro le spirali del Tevere,

gonfio di alberi splendidi come fiori.

                   Pier Paolo Pasolini

Rome opens like a dawn

behind the spiraling Tiber,

abundant with trees splendid as flowers.

                  Pier Paolo Pasolini

Baths of Caracalla

            My first and only visit here was on my first trip to Rome when I was 20.  It was time to return.  And what a day I picked!  The sky was really the color you see in the photos.  There is enough of the original structure remaining that you get a good idea of the vast scale.

Ostia Antica

            Ostia was the port of ancient Rome.  Goods arrived at the harbor here and then were shipped up the Tiber to Rome.  It was a good-sized city with temples, fora, baths, villas, apartment blocks, a theatre and shops of all kinds.

Ostia Antica, Theatre

Architectural decoration at the theatre

The actor's view from the stage

Stairway to a temple

The gods are still watching over Ostia.

Interior of a food shop

Courtyard of the food shop

Apartment block with shops below

Floor mosaics in the work yard

Floor mosaics in the gym showing athletic activities

Odds and Ends

Domine, quo vadimus?

 

Public Transportation

The Roman public transport system is excellent.  Once you know the geography, you realize there are usually several ways to reach a destination.  Just like home, however, there have been cutbacks and you often have to wait a while for a bus, tram or subway.  Here’s what it’s like to fight your way on when it arrives.