Roman Holiday III (Puglia)

Puglia
©Judith Rose 2010

Puglia is the region of Italy that includes the heel of the boot and an area along the Adriatic Coast.  You haven’t seen Italy until you have seen Puglia!  It has miles of seacoast and fresh fish (yes, fresh, really fresh, not frozen like ours) that you can see arriving on the fishermen’s boats.  In Trani when we arrived in early evening, the fishing boats were unloading their catch, still wiggling, and the fishermen sold the creatures on stands right by their boats.  Just inland from the sea acres and acres of olive groves are interspersed with cultivated fields.  A Paradise for locovores.  The food in Puglia was superb, and the range is from simple peasant fare (simple ingredients but complex flavor combinations and cooking techniques) to something you might mistake for a meal in Paris.  (No apologies to the Parisians who will read this!)  Raw fish is on the menu of the finest restaurants. 

Many civilizations and cultures have left their mark on Puglia.  There were civilizations here before the Greeks and Romans who were then followed by the Longobards, Byzantines, Normans, Arabs, Holy Roman Empire, French and Spanish.  Brindisi (the end of the Roman Appian Way) was a port for the Romans and then a departure point for the crusades in the middle ages.  Today, the ferry to Greece departs from Brindisi.  The abundant local stone is a white calcareous limestone used not only for structures but for paving the streets and sidewalks, as well, with a dazzling effect.  In the clear light, for which the region is famous, the white hilltop cities are stupendous. 

One of the features of the countryside in Puglia are its masserie, the fortified structures of landowners who built the towers to defend themselves in a time of roving brigands and general lawlessness.  Usually found in the midst of centuries-old olive groves and farming fields, today they can range from a ruined state to a modest b & b to an exclusive resort with swimming pools, tennis courts and even a golf course.  One in the vicinity where we stayed recently hosted George Clooney.

Trani, Cathedral

The romanesque cathedral at Trani was built during the time of Frederick II, the Holy Roman Emperor, who was born there.  In other towns and in the countryside you see his influence where he built cathedrals and palaces.  The cathedral at Trani is right at the harbor and when viewed from the apse end, it rises dramatically straight from the sea.

Trani, Cathedral

Trani, Cathedral

 Trani, Cathedral.  Note the white pavement.

 Trani, Campanile and Hotel Regia

Trani, View of Harbor

 Trani, Interior of Castle of Frederick II

Castel del Monte, another of Frederick's castles

 Ruvo di Puglia, XII-XIII church

Ruvo di Puglia, doorway of church

 Bari, Basilica of S. Nicola

Bari, S. Nicola, interior

 The church of S. Nicola in Bari is also a holy place for the Eastern Christians.

 Trulli, these round, conical-roofed structures built without mortar probably have their roots in prehistory.  They were used as dwellings and farm buildings, as you see here. Unfortunately, the people who know how to build and maintain them are dying off and are not being replaced by younger craftsmen.

 Alberobello.  The historic center of Alberobello consisting of trulli is on the UNESCO list of historic places.  People actually live in these houses.

Another view of downtown Alberobello

Locorontondo.  Another city with trulli.  We chose its culinary attractions. 

 Locorotondo, Trattoria del Duca.  It looks simple, but, trust me, it's not.

 Fava bean purée with wild chickory

Serious eating.

 

Ostuni

 Yes, there's baroque architecture in Puglia.  Martina Franca (above) and Lecce (right)

 Ostuni.  Approaching storm.

Ostuni. How do you find your restaurant in this maze?

Masseria

Gardens of the masseria

 Afternoon pastries in Lecce (above and left)

The appetizer course in Ceglie Messapica

Sunset at Martina Franca

Torre Guaceto, nature preserve

Brindisi, S. Maria del Casale.  A surprise ending to the visit to Puglia.  We had time to kill before flying out of Brindisi and noted that this church was near the airport.  In fact, if it were any closer, it would be on the runway!

Brindisi, S. Maria del Casale

 Brindisi, S. Maria del Casale. Cloister